{"id":1447,"date":"2013-05-13T15:53:47","date_gmt":"2013-05-13T19:53:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/tusentakk2.com\/wordpress\/?p=1447"},"modified":"2013-05-13T15:53:47","modified_gmt":"2013-05-13T19:53:47","slug":"guadeloupemarie-galante-may-1-6-2013","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/tusentakk2.com\/wordpress\/2013\/05\/guadeloupemarie-galante-may-1-6-2013\/","title":{"rendered":"Guadeloupe\/Marie Galante — May 1-6, 2013"},"content":{"rendered":"

When the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta concluded, we hung around Falmouth Harbour for a few more days, waiting for better weather for our trip southward.\u00a0 When we could see that a weather window was on its way, we moved back up to Jolly Harbour, where we did some last-minute provisioning and cleared out with customs.\u00a0 On May 1 we motored down to Deshaies, Guadeloupe, arriving early enough to go ashore, check in, and see a little of this charming little village. \u00a0On the way down we caught another Sailfish, and once again, intimidated about the prospect of getting injured while attempting to release it, I decided to use a gaff to land it. \u00a0Next day we continued south, stopping for a dive at Pigeon Island before continuing on to Iles des Saintes.\u00a0 With the forecasts promising especially mild weather for the next few days, we decided to visit for the first time yet another island of Guadeloupe: Marie Galante.\u00a0 We were joined in the expedition by Arctic<\/em> Tern<\/em> and Bodacious<\/em>.\u00a0\u00a0 As is their wont, Arctic Tern<\/em> was well on their way before we on TT2<\/em> had even cleared the sleep out of our eyes and breakfasted. \u00a0Bodacious<\/em> brought up the rear.\u00a0 Our initial destination was Grand Bourg, the main town in Marie Galante.\u00a0 When we were about half-way there, Arctic Tern<\/em> reported that the enclosed harbour looked much too small to accommodate our three vessels, so we all diverted to St. Louis, the main yacht anchorage and the second-largest village on the island.\u00a0 Next day, we all went in early and rented scooters from two adjacent vendors.\u00a0 Jack and Jo (Bodacious<\/em>) were tandom on a larger scooter.\u00a0 The rest of us were solo, with Hunter also on a larger bike.\u00a0 The scooters were easy to master and a blast to ride.\u00a0 Plenty of power, handlebar brakes, and automatic transmissions.\u00a0\u00a0 We circumnavigated the island in a clockwise manner, with a major diversion at one point to find our way to a windmill that we could see in the interior.<\/p>\n

Our first major stop was on the northeast side of the island at Gueule Grand Gouffre, a round sinkhole that features a rim about 200 feet high with an arch at the bottom opening to the sea.<\/p>\n

We had lunch at a restaurant at Capesterre, right beside an extensive and beautiful beach.<\/p>\n

We stopped at two rum factories.\u00a0\u00a0 The first, Habitation Bellevue, had a nice tasting station and gift shop.\u00a0 There were trailers arriving with cut sugar cane, and all phases of the production cycle seemed to be underway.\u00a0 Fermentation vats were bubbling away.\u00a0\u00a0 Others were being filled.\u00a0\u00a0 Some were being cleaned in preparation for the next batch.\u00a0 Cane was being fed into the presses that squeeze out the juice.\u00a0\u00a0 Fermented juice was being distilled.\u00a0 And everything was open, with no apparent restrictions on where an observer could go.<\/p>\n

At another rummery, much smaller and more primitive, it was apparent that the cane is delivered by old-fashioned wooden-wheeled carts pulled by oxen, and that the cane is fed to the press by hand or pitchfork.\u00a0\u00a0 As we arrived, everything was being shut down for the day, so we could not stay and observe the processes.<\/p>\n

We were required to return our scooters by 4 pm.\u00a0 Afterwards, as we strolled toward the town pier where our dinghy was tied, it became apparent that a crowd had gathered at the base of the pier and on the adjacent beach.\u00a0 Chanting and singing and blowing of conch. \u00a0\u00a0We soon realized that the crowd was there because a long dugout canoe had just arrived at the beach.\u00a0 Posters on the side of a small building revealed that the canoe was a reproduction of the kind that had been used by Arawak Amerindians for ocean-going passages.\u00a0\u00a0 And then we noticed that yokes were being affixed to two pairs of ox bulls.\u00a0 The yokes were set upon the necks of the bulls just behind their horns, and were then securely tied to the horns.\u00a0\u00a0 Each bull had a large nose ring, to which was attached a long rope that ran up over the forehead of the bull and then up over the bull\u2019s back.\u00a0 Verbal commands, reinforced by pressure applied to nose rings, were used to control the bulls.\u00a0\u00a0 As we watched, the oxen teams were positioned in front of the canoe and chains were attached to the yokes.\u00a0\u00a0 The lead team\u2019s chain was attached to the rear team\u2019s yoke.\u00a0\u00a0 The rear team\u2019s chain was attached to a line that was tied to a ring near the bottom of the front of the canoe.\u00a0\u00a0 When all was arranged, commands where shouted, control lines were tugged, and the canoe and teams surged forward.\u00a0\u00a0 When the canoe was about three-quarters ashore, the line attached to the canoe broke.\u00a0\u00a0 After several attempts to refasten the line, aided by Hunter who jumped in with his handy Leatherman tool\u00a0to cut off the old knot, the canoe was brought fully ashore.\u00a0\u00a0 A remarkable and unforgettable spectacle.<\/p>\n

The next day we all motored north a few miles to anchor near Ilet du Vieux Fort, where we had heard there was good snorkeling.\u00a0\u00a0 As we approached by dinghy it became apparent that the island was teeming with nesting Bridled Terns.\u00a0\u00a0 They seemed unperturbed by our presence, so we anchored our dinghies and had a marvelous snorkel, circumnavigating the small island.\u00a0\u00a0 The west side was especially captivating, filled with arches and eroded caves.\u00a0\u00a0 Later I returned with my telephoto lens and took a few pictures of the birds.\u00a0\u00a0 When we returned to our boats, we found that the anchorage had become somewhat rolly, so Tusen Takk II<\/em> and Arctic Tern<\/em> moved one harbor south to Anse Canot, where we found blissful comfort.\u00a0\u00a0 Bodacious<\/em> had her stabilizing fish out.\u00a0\u00a0 Although intended for stabilization while underway, they provided just enough area and weight to render sufficient at-anchor stabilization in the captain’s judgment to render a move unnecessary.<\/p>\n

Next day, May 6, we all moved back to Les Saintes.\u00a0\u00a0 But to read about our adventures there, the gentle reader will have to tune in to the next exciting episode of \u201cChuck and Barb go cruising\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\t\t