Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta; part 3 — Racing & Associated Activities — April 18-21, 2014

In this post are a few of the pictures taken during and after the races, as well as at the boat parade.  Especially noteworthy for me was the participation of the Norwegian vessel Sincerity.   We saw her here last year too, when she was reported to have King Harald of Norway on board.   No King this year, but we know they ate like kings after returning to their slip each day:  we noticed the crew was celebrating with what looked to be gravlaks and øl one afternoon.

Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta; part 2 — Dinghy Concert — April 18, 2014

As I mentioned in the previous post, Good Friday is by law a holiday on Antigua during which no alcohol can be sold or dispensed, so there were no parties scheduled for that night.   A night at Regatta without a party?   That could not be permitted to stand.   Dave and Trudie (Persephone) approached Jack and Jo (Bodacious) and it was decided to have a dinghy concert off the stern of Bodacious.  Dave and Trudie performed — Dave on guitar and Trudie singing.  Patrick (Island Dream) was also asked to perform, and he was the opening act, singing and playing the ukelele.   Dave arranged to have professional-style speakers and sound equipment, including lights.   They performed on the upper deck of Bodacious, with Bill (Dolce Vita) as sound man and myself as the “official” photographer.   At least 60 dinghies attended, each with their own libations and with nibblies to pass around.

Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta; part 1 — April 13-22, 2014

On April 13 we motored down from Cocoa Point, Barbuda back to Five Islands, Antigua, where we spent the night before moving on down to Falmouth Harbour, where much of the Regatta activities would be centered, and where Barb and I and many of our friends would attend that afternoon an organizational meeting for Regatta volunteers.   We received our volunteer T-shirts and our assignments and enjoyed complimentary drinks and sushi.   On the 15th Barb and some others went for a walk east of English Harbour and happened upon a restoration project of a historical building.   That night gazillions of folks gathered at the Mad Mongoose for an informal social organized by Tom (Farhaven) for participants of the Coconut Telegraph, the SSB net convened every morning at 8 am on USB 8070.   The place was packed, a testament to the popularity of the “Nut Net”, as it is informally called.

Wednesday, April 16, was the first of the official parties for the Regatta held at the Antigua Yacht Club lawn.   We got there early, which was fortunate, since we learned on our arrival that Barb and I were among those on “clean-up duty” during the party, which meant that we were to patrol the lawn and the nearby eating area and keep the tables (and lawn) cleared of empty cups and plates, etc., an assignment that we had somehow missed at the volunteer meeting on Tuesday.   Barb dashed back to our boat to get our official volunteer T-shirts, and we spent the next couple of hours performing duties somewhat below our educational levels.  It actually wasn’t such a bad gig since we got a free dinner and had plenty of time to chat with friends and listen to the band.  At the end of the evening the Mount Gay sponsors gave away the coveted red hats that were not collected by Regatta crew members.  Due to our duties, we were there to collect two of them — thank you!

Thursday we gave our livers a rest and stayed on the boat, missing the activities associated with the Single Handed Race.

Friday, we joined 18 others on board Nirvana for an expedition out among the boats racing on the first of four days of general races.   Anticipating the problem of dealing with stowing the many dinghies used to arrive at Nirvana for the voyage, Morgan had set a separate anchor with two large buoys attached.  As guests arrived, passengers would be let off at Nirvana, the dinghy driver would go to the dinghy float and attach the dinghy and then be brought to Nirvana with a dinghy reserved for the task.

The different categories of racers started at different times.  Some categories had already begun, but our venture out to the race venue was delayed, because some of Morgan’s intended guests were volunteer “wranglers” — drivers of dinghies used to assist the competitors in leaving their slips (and getting back into their slips at the end of the race).  Morgan was idling some distance from the dinghy float while awaiting the arrival of the wranglers, when he noticed that a would-be competitor was approaching the float as if to tie on.  He shouted out a warning that the floats (and dinghies) were not securely attached to the bottom but were merely on an anchor.  The skipper responded “we will only be five minutes!”   Yah, right.   They approached the floats from the wrong side; the wind blew them into the floats. The painters on the dinghies and floats became entangled with the keel of the sailboat.  The windage of the assemblage proved to be much too much for the anchor and the whole kit and caboodle went “sailing” down the harbour toward the distant and then not-so-distant rocky shore.   For many many minutes the crew of the vessel ineffectually poked at the painters with a boat hook, all the while drifting away.  Finally, they dropped their anchor to keep off the rocky shore and our wranglers showed up and went dashing off to help.  Many many more minutes went by.   Someone got in the water and untangled most of the lines.  The skipper got impatient and tried to raise a center board and jammed Morgan’s anchor line between the hull and the board, locking the board in a position neither totally up nor totally down.  Eventually, our wranglers freed the dinghies, and brought them back to Nirvana, leaving the sailboat to continue floundering.   A quick decision was made to tie all of the dinghies to the stern of Hoofbeats.   That took many many more minutes to accomplish.   By the time Nirvana finally got to the race venue, many of the categories had already begun and disappeared.   So we missed many of the starts, as did the inept sailboat in its own category.   Served them right.

This all happened on Good Friday, a holiday on Antigua which by law is alcohol-free, so there were no parties scheduled for that night.   A night at the Classic Regatta without a party?   That could not be permitted to stand.   Dave and Trudie (Persephone) approached Jack and Jo (Bodacious) and it was decided to have a dinghy concert off the stern of Bodacious.   See the next post for an account of the concert.

On Saturday we joined Jack and Jo at the evening lawn party in making and serving complementary “Dark and Stormy” drinks.  (Recipe:  Ice, Mount Gay Rum, ginger beer and a slice of lime.  Evaluation:  delicious!)   Later a bunch of us went to an “all you can eat” sushi dinner at the restaurant overlooking the AYC lawn and stage; from there we watched the acts in an “open mike” talent show.

Sunday after the race was the Parade of Classics at Nelson’s Dockyard in English Harbour, and that evening back at Antigua Yacht Club in Falmouth was a party with complimentary lobster bisque and rum punch.

On Monday we joined Bill & Coleen (Dolce Vita), Rob (Miclo III), Eric (Viking Angel) and Jack & Jo   aboard Bodacious for another close-up view of the racers on their prescribed routes.   Jack took us close enough for me to get some satisfying photographs.

Tuesday — the last day of the regatta — the Cream Tea Party in Nelson’s Dockyard in the afternoon, with the ladies all decked out in pretty dresses and hats, followed that evening by a slideshow (where, with many others, some of my race photos were shown) and the Trophies were awarded to the winning racers. 

Cocoa Point, K-Club & Kestrals; Barbuda — April 11-13, 2014

On the afternoon of April 11, after returning to our boats following our hiking excursion to the west (cf. previous post), a number of us made the big move to the west of Cocoa Point, where we anchored between the defunct K-Club Resort and the exclusive Cocoa Point Resort.   Next morning, Lee & Sharon (Allegro), Bill (Dolce Vita), Gary & Bobbie (Enroute) and Barb & I dinghied ashore.  I crossed over the road/path to the east side of the pond in order to try again to photograph Kestrals in a tall century plant, while the rest of our party explored the K-Club resort and then continued north along the seashore.   Barb took a number of pictures of the resort, and I had good luck at the century plant.  Below are some of our pictures.

On April 13 we returned to Antigua, where we joined many of our friends in participating in the Classic Yacht Regatta.   But that is the subject of another post.

More walks; Barbuda — April 10-11, 2014

On the 10th, Barb and I, Gary (Enroute) and Bill (Dolce Vita) took a short walk up the eastern shore. Hanging close to the sea this time, we encountered one of the makeshift “cabins” that the locals put up in order to have some shelter when they come out to camp on weekends and/or holidays.   For me, the most relevant experience of that short hike was the scrounging of a red container from the junk-littered rocky shore.  You have seen the wide, shallow plastic containers that bakeries use to deliver loaves of bread to grocery stores?   Surely that will be useful somewhere on our boat.   Surely I can find a spot to place it.  So says I.   Barb has her doubts, but for the time being it is kicking around on the deck until I find a spot, or until Barb some night under cover of darkness throws it overboard.

Next day, Barb & I, Lee (Allegro) and Bill & Coleen (Dolce Vita) walked to the spot on the west coast of Cocoa Point that is north of Cocoa Beach Resort and south of the decaying K-Club.  Actually, I stopped well before that and parked myself and my tripod under a century plant, hoping that the Kestrals I had seen there on other occasions would return and pose for me.   No joy, but the others had a grand time exploring the south shore east of Cocoa Point.

Frigate Rookery; Barbuda — April 9, 2014

On April 9 we arranged for Kenroy to pick up Compass Rose, Dolce Vita and the Takks at “our” beach and take us in to Codrington, where we paid a modest park fee and were taken by our guide Buck out to the Frigate Rookery.   On our way back, Barb asked Buck to stop south of the Beach House Resort so that C.R. & D.V. could see that side of the island.  Then, we returned to Codrington where Kenroy took us to the home of a friend where we had another fantastic lunch, with almost all of us having lobster.  Later that day Kenroy delivered to “our” shore ten lobsters we had ordered .  As it happened, he was delayed and arrived in the dark just as we were all about to indulge in a potluck aboard TT2.

Tom (Farhaven) and Morris (Viking Angel) went to shore in the dark to fetch the bugs; they returned just as we were taking the pork tenderloins off the grill.   (We all saved the lobster tails for another day; our four are now nicely vacuum packed in the freezer awaiting a special event.)

What a feast we had!  Once again we had 20 cruisers present and every boat brought something yummy!

Walk to West Shore; Barbuda — April 8, 2014

On April 8 Barb & I, Bill (Dolce Vita) and Jackie (Compass Rose) took a dinghy to shore about midway between Cocoa Point and Spanish Point.   We walked west and then passed over a road that cut across the brackish pond just east of Cocoa Point.  This put us at the extreme north end of Cocoa Point Resort, where we accessed the beach, stopping to speak with the guard, who affirmed what we already knew:  the Resort is private and we could not walk in along the dirt road that provides access into the Resort, but we could walk along the beach.  Barb and Bill wanted to see what they could of the Resort (from the beach) but Jackie and I elected to stay put and bird watch while they walked south.  It is a long way down the beach to the resort, but I should have gone too.  Turned out there was a film crew on the beach in front of the resort, and they were filming commercials for three different things:  a Moth hydrofoil which is about the same size as a Hobie cat, kiteboards with and without hydrofoils, and Sunsail catamarans.  Barb and Bill stayed out of the way of the cameras (except for the camera drone), but otherwise were right there at the action.

The beach to the north is called the Princess Diana Beach in honor of her time spent at the now closed (for nine years) K-Club along that section of the shore.

When they rejoined us, we walked along the bumpy road back toward our dinghy, passing by a blooming century plant upon which were perched birds.  They flew away before I could get a picture, but I vowed to return another day.

Lazy Days; Barbuda — April 6-7, 2014

On April 6 I finally got around to installing the KISS SSB counterpoise.   But first I had to clean up the mess on the swim platform we had made the previous evening in the dark while cleaning our lobsters.

And then I had to clean out the port upper lazaret in order to get to the SSB tuner and to the space under the false flybridge floor where the uncoiled KISS would be placed.  The amount of “stuff” that had to be temporarily removed was embarrassing.  The installation of the KISS itself was easy and almost a complete success.  Not only were the SSB reception and transmitting greatly improved, but the “clipping” problem of words when broadcasting on mid and high power was apparently eliminated.   I say “almost” a complete success, because the reception and broadcasting power are still not equal to that obtained by some of our sailing friends.  But then, their antennae are higher and longer.

On April 7 Jackie & Eric (Compass Rose) and I got up early and went on a bird-watching expedition along the rough road on the southern shore between Cocoa Point and Spanish Point.   Below are the few pictures I got that are worth displaying.

Island Tour; Barbuda — April 5, 2014

On one of her walks, Barb encountered a local “taxi” driver named Kenroy and asked him about getting a tour of the island.  They communicated back and forth by phone a number of times, and ended up arranging for a tour on April 5.  When almost our entire Armada wanted to go, Kenroy arranged for another van to come along to handle the “overflow”.  We were picked up at Spanish Point, and after a very bumpy 40-minute drive into Codrington, we drove up to the vicinity of the ruins of the Codrington Estate house in the Highlands.  After viewing the ruins, we did a 45-minute walk through the brush to the Darby sinkhole, a crater some 30 feet deep and 100 yards in diameter.   Most of the sides are sheer, but there is one place on the south end where one can scramble down to the cool, dense, tropical vegetated flat bottom with its own ecosystem.  On some of the overhanging cliffs one can see bats suspended overhead.  No visitor to Barbuda should miss this site!

After another 45-minute walk back through the dry brush to the vehicles, we returned to Codrington for a lunch Kenroy had arranged. The cooks, Louise and Claudine, were employees of the Tourist Information Office, and the meal they prepared on their day off was delicious, generous, and inexpensive.  Some of us had (huge) halves of Lobster; others had fish or chicken.  Kenroy had an early-afternoon conflict, so after lunch we walked to the grocery store to do some provisioning and Claudine and Louise opened up the Tourist Office for us and gifted us with tons of literature and Antigua/Barbuda flags while we waited for Kenroy’s return.  Then, off to Two Foot Bay where we visited the caves along the north edge of the Highlands.  On the way back to our anchorage, we stopped to purchase about 25 live lobsters from a fisherman with whom Kenroy had made prior arrangements.  Kenroy expected that the cost would be about $11 (EC) per pound — the price he was accustomed to paying — but when the vendor realized he was selling to tourists and they wanted to buy their lobsters separately, the price ballooned up to $10 (US), almost three times as much!  Most of our group indignantly turned away, but Barb quietly went into diplomatic mode and succeeded in buying six at $16 (EC) a pound before the vendor called a halt to any further transactions.  He had a buyer willing to take all of his lobsters so he didn’t have to deal with selling them individually, and the buyer was local (from Antigua).  We gave two to the only couple who had not been able to attend the tour (the captain was under the weather), and Dolce Vita and Tusen Takk II consumed the other four that night after grilling them on the Takk‘s barbecue.  Kenroy was embarrassed and distressed about the situation with the lobster man, so he stopped at his home on our return trip and gave the group (at a very small price) eight small lobsters he had cooked and frozen a few days earlier.

We think Kenroy is a great man to use for a tour.  Friendly, accommodating, and responsible.  His phone number is 1-286-724-4444

Sundowner on TT2; Barbuda — April 4, 2014

On April 4, Jack & Jo (Bodacious) and their guests joined our Armada at Spanish Point.  Gary & his wife (the guests) brought along with them a KISS counterpoise ground for our SSB (single sideband) radio.  With Jack’s help we had ordered the ground and had it shipped to Gary so that he could deliver it to us in Antigua.  It would be a few days before I could find the time in our busy recreational schedule to effect the installation, but in the meantime a celebration of Bodacious‘s arrival called for another sundowner.  Tusen Takk II stepped up to the plate, and broke the record of the previous night by squeezing in 20 guests.  (Four new belly buttons from Bodacious minus two from Kewaydin, who had departed by then.)   Some of the pictures: