Category Archives: Martinique

Martinique — May 5-10, 2014

On May 5 at first light we left Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth, and motored down the west coast of Dominica and crossed over the open sea to Martinique.  When we got into what is normally the lee of the island, we were surprised to find that we were bashing into steep, short-period waves.  The wind was out of the northeast, and the currents were flowing out of the south.  Current against wind can cause ugly conditions, and that is what was happening.  St. Pierre, up in the northwest corner of Martinique, is a lovely place to spend some time when the anchorage is not too rolly.  That day, it was definitely too rolly.  Fortunately, we had gotten an early-enough start that we still had plenty of daylight left, so we kept on plowing down the west coast of Martinique, pitching all the while, passing Fort de France and then finally tucking into Grande Anse D’Arlet for the night.  Another early start the next morning, and alas, another pitching passage.  Finally, when we rounded the corner at Diamond Rock, the wind and current were no longer in such severe opposition, and our ride smoothed somewhat.  And of course, once inside the Cul-de-sac du Marin, we were in Nirvana.  As is our custom, we turned south almost immediately after passing the Club Med peninsula and anchored in the peaceful waters adjacent to Ile Baude, far from the windy and crowded and dirty waters on the east end of the huge bay.  There we remained for four days, with a number of dinghy expeditions to shore.  Barb did some walking on shore with the ladies from Receta and Asseance, we all attended several happy hours featuring Ti Punches, and we all had one fine dining experience at Ti Toques.  During one such get-together, Barb took a panorama with her new iPhone, an operation accomplished by sweeping the camera from one side to the other.  She will need a little more practice, as can be seen in the picture below.  On another day, Steve, Ann, Heather and Barb took a rental auto on a wine-and-rhum expedition; Don and I stayed back to work on our respective boats.

When we left Le Marin, it was not because we were not having fun, but because we had a slight weather window to get further south, where we hoped to attend the Jazz Festival in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia.   But to read about our experiences in St. Lucia, you must turn to our next blog entry.

Christmas Winds are coming! — Dec. 3-6, 2013

Concerned about the advent of “Christmas Winds”, we left Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, somewhat sooner than we had planned. But during our brief stay, we did have some fun.  First, we took a maxi to and from the Caribbean Movie Theatre, where we saw the second Hunger Games.  Second, acting on a suggestion from Sharon (Allegro), we went for lunch to “A Taste of India”, where we ordered the Chef’s Sampler.  Four (!) different dishes, plus rice and flat bread and dessert.  Not realizing what we were getting into, we each ordered the special.  Oops!  One order is enough for two, with perhaps an extra order of rice.  The meal was fabulous, and we were told that the four dishes are changed every day.  The special is served from noon until 4 PM.  We highly recommend it!  (Thanks, Sharon.)  Third, we had our teeth cleaned at one of the few dental offices in the Caribbean that have dental hygienists.  Normally it is done by the dentist and we find that they do a pretty quick and a not-so-thorough job. Fourth, we got our propane filled and lastly stocked up on provisions from the excellent grocery stores in Rodney Bay.  (Some of these activities were more fun than others.)

For the benefit of our non-cruising readers, perhaps I should give a few words about Christmas Winds. Here are some excerpts from posting of Chris Parker, weather guru who provides advice to cruisers in the Caribbean. We are subscribers, and get our advice in emails, but he also provides his services via Single Sideband and webcasts.

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Wx Update, E Caribbean, Wed4, 9am

SYNOPSIS:
Previously, I’ve detailed the mild weather we’ve seen in the past few
days in most areas, and I believe suggested folks make good use of
this mild weather, as it would not last forever, and may not be
repeated anytime soon.

Today it seems we’re on the cusp of what some might call the
“Christmas Winds”. There’s nothing tying these winds to any Holiday –
they’re simply strong ENE-E Trades, which tend to be persistent (over
days or weeks)…and they’re driven by a tight pressure gradient
between strong HI generally N/NE of Bermuda, versus lower pressures
over S America. Intervals of brisk ENE-E Trades can occur at various
times from now through May. So call the “Christmas Winds”, or
not…but they’ll be infecting various parts of E Caribbean in the
coming days …

Thur5

SYNOPSIS:

Some folks may call them the “Christmas Winds”. Whatever you may
choose to call them…strong Trades, driven by a persistently-tight
wind-gradient arrive in E Caribbean as FrontalTROF settles S-ward
along N Parts of E Caribbean about tomorow night…and gradually
shifting S to S Parts of E Caribbean by late Sun8-Mon9.

Although we may see an occasional 24-36he interval of slight
moderation (down to ENE@20-25/8’…for instance about Wed11 as a
ColdFRONT presses S&E in W Atlantic)…except for such brief intervals
of slightly-less-bad conditions, I see no break to strong Trades in
the next few weeks.

I’ve detailed this pending persistently-strong pattern I think for a
week-or-more, and with increasing clarity and forcefulness over time.
If you really really need to be somewhere at a certain time in the
next few weeks, you should consider getting there before the onset of
strong conditions, which may occur about 24hrs from now along N
Caribbean / about 48hrs from now in mid-part of Windwards/Leewards
Chain / 3 days from now S Parts of E Caribbean.

Fri6

SYNOPSIS:
Forecast models are in excellent agreement, and forecast confidence is
relatively-high…that we’re poised to enter an extended interval of
brisk ENE-E Trades/seas.

Long-range models suggest some moderation during the week of Mon23
(Christmas week), with periods of several consecutive days of brisk
ENE-E Trades/seas/squalls and several consecutive days of milder
conditions…beginning about Sun22 or Mon23.

Sat7

SYNOPSIS:
FrontalTROF near NE Caribbean supports strong, gusty, squally
conditions with large seas thru tomorrow…and drifts S slightly,
infecting more of E Caribbean tomorrow.

By the time FrontalTROF settles into SE Caribbean tomorrow night-Mon9,
it’ll be weaker, and conditions will not be as extreme as they are in
N Areas.

Mon9

SYNOPSIS:
Conditions become more-uniform throughout E Caribbean thru
tomorrow…as FrontalTROF continues weakening as it settles S-ward,
and all areas revert toward low-20s gusting toward 30k, from the E,
and with 8-10′ seas, and not many squalls.

Wed11-Fri13 morning gradually moderates (with greatest degree of
moderation N Parts of E Caribbean), but few areas settle much below
20k/7’…and there may be an increase in squalls some areas late
tomorrow persisting into Fri13, with wind/seas locally-higher near
squalls.

Late-Fri13-Sun15 wind/seas rebuild well into the 20s (seas 8-10′).

Mon16-Tue17 may look much like Wed11-Thu12, with conditions settling
some, but not becoming “mild” or even “moderate” by most definitions.

Next interval of “mild” or “moderate” conditions may be sometime after
Sun22.

Tue10

SYNOPSIS:
Except for a band of showers & squalls along very-South parts of E
Caribbean (which should dissipate later today)…E Trades are uniform
(and brisk) throughout E Caribbean today.

Most areas see some moderation to Trades/Seas tomorrow-Fri13, though
with some return of squalls in some areas.

S Half of E Caribbean may begin rebuilding throughout the day
Fri13…but N Parts of E Caribbean should see the mildest combination
of wind/seas during the day Fri13…as ColdFRONT presses S&E in W
Atlantic.

Late Fri13…ColdFRONT stalls & weakens, and allows pressures N of E
Caribbean to rebuild…boosting E Trades significantly beginning late
Fri13 (and earlier Fri13 S Parts).

S&E Parts of E Caribbean (ABCs / Venezuela / Trinidad / Windwards /
Leewards) all surge to extremely-strong conditions by Sat14 &
Sun15…then settle into low-20s gusting toward 30k with 8′ seas
Mon16-Wed18. VI-PR-DR also build Sat14-Sun15 and remain 20g25k/7’+
Mon16-Wed18.

Further moderation seems possible at-least for 1-2 days about Thu19.

Beginning in a few days, we’ll see a more-typical pattern gradually
establish…with the center of mid-Latitude HI pressure shifting to E
Atlantic…driving stronger ENE-E Trades in Tropical Atlantic (E of
Caribbean and also from Canaries WSW-ward)…and this should allow a
looser pressure gradient in W Atlantic (resulting in a significant
decrease from the persistently-strong Trades for E Caribbean).

This new pattern seems to result in persistently-milder conditions in
E Caribbean by about Mon23. This OUTLOOK is subject to change, but is
consistent with previous discussions.

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We left Rodney Bay on Dec. 5, and stopped at St. Pierre, Martinique, after a passage of some 43 nm.  Next day we moved on up to Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica, a distance of 55 nm. To learn of our activities in Dominica, where we have been hunkered down ever since, see our next blog post.

Here are some pictures I took during those passages.

 

Martinique – May 18-30, 2013

On May 18 we motored the 36 nm down to St. Pierre, Martinique.  In the past we have had some rolly experiences at St. Pierre, but this time it was nice and calm.  When we arrived we learned that a heritage celebration was to begin that day, so we walked up to the ruins of the theatre and found a tent and seating erected in what had been the foyer.  Unfortunately, the performance, which consisted of a long and dramatic soliloquy accompanied by a busy percussionist, was entirely in French.  We were seated much too close to the front to consider leaving early, and anyway it was fun to watch the audience react to the performer.  As we were heading back toward the dock we encountered a parade filled with bands and people costumed in a manner clearly intended to evoke the heritage of the island.

Next day, the Takks and the Terns walked northward out of town and visited the Earth Sciences Centre, not to be confused with the Pelée eruption museum that is up on the hill overlooking the bay and is much closer to the center of town.  To get to the Science Centre, one walks along the road toward Précheur, crosses the bridge into the Fort District and passes the ruins of the Fort Church.   Eventually one arrives at the Centre, instantly recognizable by its imposing modern boxy construction.  We had read that hand-held audio devices were available for English translations of the extensive exhibits; alas, they were not functioning when we arrived.  The pictures were interesting anyway.  There was also a nearly one-hour long film about Pelée and other volcanoes, also in French, but thankfully accompanied by large legible subtitles.  Very well done, unlike the lousy film we saw some years ago at the Volcano center in Montserrat.

On the way to the Centre we passed a tree that was alive with colorful and noisy birds high up in a tree.   I returned later and took some of pictures of what turned out to be Village Weavers.  Imports from Africa, they are said to be common and widespread in Hispaniola, but are otherwise not found in the Caribbean except on the north end of Martinique.  As I photographed the birds it soon became apparent that only the males were busy weaving new nests; the females merely stood off and watched the activity.  Does that seem fair?

When St. Pierre was destroyed by the eruption of Mount Pelée in May 8, 1902, there were 13 vessels in the then-busy harbor.  All but one sank; the remaining 12 now serve as a seductive attraction for those of us who scuba dive.  Many are too deep for normal non-decompression dives, but one large vessel sits upright with its bow just at the limits:  the Roraima, 400 feet long and 65 feet wide.  Although it sits in 165 feet of water, the attached mooring line runs down directly to the bow, the top of which is listed at 115 feet.  Barb doesn’t like to dive wrecks, and is especially disinclined to dive deep ones.  Hunter, always a generous and accommodating man, had little interest in the dive, but when he learned that Barb had turned down the opportunity:  “not just ‘no’, but ‘hell no’”, he volunteered to accompany me.  We were submerged for only 21 minutes total, including going up and down and hanging on the line for a safety stop on the way up.  When we reached the wreck I dipped down to circle the bow and my computer registered 135 feet maximum depth, a figure that suggests that my computer has begun registering depth inaccurately.  With the dive so short, there wasn’t time to see much; the most salient feature was the presence of at least a dozen huge lionfish hanging at the bow.   We came up with lots of air still in our tanks, but with our computers showing that we had been right at the limit of our acceptable nitrogen levels.   Ah well, at least we can brag that we have dived a casualty of the famous Pelée eruption.

On May 20 we moved 15 nm down to Anse Mitan, where we went ashore and did some modest sightseeing on foot.  While there, we also checked in to Martinique, the office in St. Pierre having been closed either for the weekend or a holiday during our entire stay.  We stopped at a vegetable and fruit stand, where a very friendly lady sold us a number of items, all of which were so delicious that I was almost tempted to return back after we had gone further south.  And a gregarious man showed me his fishing nets and the fish and fish soup he was preparing on a small fire on the beach.  All of this in French of course, with a bit of broken English on their part and no French on mine.  On the 22nd we moved 5 nm to Grande Anse D’Arlet, where we also did some walking.  And then on the 23rd we traveled the 15 nm to the outer reaches of the bay at Cul-de-Sac du Marin, where we could continue to get cooling breezes but were protected from waves by a series of reefs, and where the waters are much cleaner than the eastern anchorage with its hundreds and hundreds of vessels.

On the 25th we hosted a “noodle party”.   We provided the rum drinks and threw lines with floats out behind our boat so that the guests would not be swept away.  Everyone brought his/her own noodle for floatation.  Arctic Tern, Zero to Cruising, Aries Too, Oceana, Nahanni River, and a lady from Brazil on Tauà all participated.

After waiting for days for the winds to subside, we departed Marin on May 30, headed for St. Lucia.

 

 

Le Marin, Martinique — December 4-13, 2012

When we arrived in Martinique on Dec. 4th, weather forecasts indicated that we would in a few days be getting high winds and seas.   Thinking ahead about the nature of anchorages further up the chain, we decided to just stay put until winds and seas subsided again.  Not the most wise choice we ever made.  We had several more nice days, during which we could probably have made it to another well-protected location.  And the “few” days of predicted strong winds turned into a full week once they arrived.

But we were snuggly ensconced in our favorite location within the Cul-de-Sac du Marin:  up next to the mangroves past the reefs east of the peninsula hosting Club Med.  We started out the stay with a visit of a couple of boat gremlins.  When we put the dinghy down from the upper deck, where it had resided since before we went on the hard in Trinidad, I held my breath while I attempted to start it so we could check in at Customs.  Started right up, much to my relief.  I shut it off when I noticed there was very little gas left in the tank, and fetched the last full gas can from the set of three that are stored under a seat in the upper deck.  Started the dinghy again, but it soon died and wouldn’t restart.  The gas I had put into the dinghy was very old.  Maybe too old?  John and Kathy (Oceana) gave us a ride in to customs, and John later took me in to buy fresh gas after we experimented and found the engine ran just fine when connected to his gas tank.  The other gremlin involved the shower hose that is housed in a box imbedded in the stern of TT2.  It burst one day while I was using it to wash off after a session of water aerobics. I couldn’t find a replacement in Le Marin chandleries or Caribbean marine catalogs so I ordered one from a USA marine catalog and had it sent to Jon and Cathie Ringen, who will be joining us in the USVIs in January.  What did we do beside fuss about boat problems?  Well, we did some shopping in Marin, did some hiking, did some grumbling about the slow wifi, and went in to Mango’s for a lunch and what we hoped would be better wifi.  Nope.  On another day we went to just outside the Marina that hosts the wifi service, where once again I was unable to download some software I had purchased from Adobe. And of course, as opposed to “boat problems”, there were also “boat chores”; for example I spent about a day and a half polishing stainless steel in both the interior and the exterior of TT2.

We had Håkon and Anna-Karin (Unicorn) over for drinks one evening, and on a couple of evenings played spades with John and Kathy.

For much of the windy time there were two large motor vessels anchored out in the harbor.  The entire eastern end of the bay is jam-packed with sailboats, but with the exception of the Dock Wise vessels we have seen near Club Med, this was the first time we had seen such large vessels in the Cul-de-Sac.

On December 14 we were finally able to resume our trek northward.  But for the details of those passages, the gentle reader will have to await the next exciting episode of “Chuck and Barb go Cruising”.