On October 15 we all (Lars Helge & Rasmus & Kari & Barb & I) crowded into Lars Helge’s car and drove up into the foothills of the Sierra Nevada mountains.  Our goal was to visit the three villages of Pampaneira, Bubión and Capilera.  We made two additional stops along the way.  We noticed an intriguing sign/display for the village of Soportújar.  A white wall bore a large model of the village and also displayed a black silhouette of a witch.  We could not resist diverting to the village to seek an explanation.  At the village, we found a handsome patio that featured a stunning view of the valley below.  On the patio was a fountain in the form of a statue of a boiling pot being stirred by two witches.  Just outside the village was a decorative entrance to a cave that apparently was named “The Eye of the Witch”.  Signs apparently averred that the cave has long been thought to have mysterious powers.  A quick poll revealed that none of us felt any magical vibrations, and so we continued on our way.  Back on the road to the three villages, we soon passed a small cavern.  At the entrance there was a very small hut whose function was unclear.  The inside was clear but featured walls that appeared to have seams of coal.

We passed through Pampaneira and then Bubión and stopped at Capilera, where we ordered “caffè Americano”, which comes in small cups and contains about a week’s supply of caffeine.  The setting was nostalgic, since we had been there with a large number of Norwegian celebrants in the “First International Almond Festival” in October, 2006.

We then reversed our direction and returned to Pampaneira, population 355 and 3480 feet above sea level, where we did some exploring of the village and its many interesting shops, including leather goods and wool rugs and ceramics and fashionable clothing and cheeses and hams.  An interesting factoid not immediately apparent is that the chimneys in the three villages are unique.  Whereas the chimneys in most villages have horizontal cross-sections that are polygonal, most of those here are circular or elliptical.  Fascinating, no?

After a yummy lunch we retraced our steps back to home territory, dropping off in Itrabo Kari and Rasmus, who had invited us over to their rented villa for dinner, and then continuing on to Casa Emilie.

When we joined them later for dinner, we found a multi-level restored home that featured thick plastered walls and lots of charming little rooms and a lovely patio on the roof..  The dinner of fish and pasta was delicious and was accented by some really good wines.