Our experiences and activites during our last 5 weeks in Bonaire were to a large extent an extension of those discussed in the previous post. We attended the Monday evening fish ID classes given by Kim White. We exercised on weekday mornings at the Bonaire Health and Fitness Club, and then usually went for a local walk in the Kralendijk area. We took the pickup to several more remote locations for extended hikes on established hiking trails, including one to the north near Rincon and another to new-to-us areas in the east. And although Bill and I passed, Colleen and Barb enjoyed visiting the donkey sanctuary. And of course we continued to dive, although Barb and Bill much less so. I did most of my dives as a solo diver at night, enjoying the challenges of learning new techniques and new creatures. (I will hold back my underwater photos for another post.)
We continued to fuss and fix the pickup, including replacing two broken rear windows after suffering a bit of random vandalism. (Actually, it turned out to be cheaper to just replace the whole rear doors with ones obtained from a local salvage shop.)
When the 7-yr old 25 hp Yamaha outboard developed problems — it would not stay in reverse — we investigated and found worn gears and worn linkage. Unfortunately, we could not find a replacement motor with electric start. Barb was especially concerned. In the end, we decided to purchase a new 30 hp Yamaha motor, manual start notwithstanding. All of the exercise at the gym is paying off: Barb can indeed start the beast. Fortunately, the Yamaha dealer was willing to serve as a broker for the old motor and we got a good price when it sold “as is” almost immediately.
We did a fair amount of socializing with a local resident of Dutch descent: Paulien Wijnvoord. She is keeping our pickup on her property while we are gone.
Tusen Takk II and Dolce Vita made the 50-mile passage from Bonaire to Curaçao on April 25. (Celilo had crossed about a month earlier in order to be free to accept an invitation to crew on a vessel that was going to visit Cuba.) Long time readers will remember that we leave the boat in Curaçao because there is not suitable facility in Bonaire.
When wind and sea conditions resulted in Dolce Vita not being able to keep up with TT2 on sails alone, she switched to motor sailing. Alas, after a time she developed fuel problems: clogged filters due to dirty fuel. A change of filters did not suffice to clear the problem. This was worrisome, because the final leg of the trip to Curaçao Marine past the Queen Emma swing bridge and then down the relatively narrow channel through Willemstad could not be done under sail. We slowed down to stay with them, and readied lines in case we would have to tow them to the Marina. Colleen sailed while Bill spent most of the trip trying to combat the problem; there was so much “snot” in the fuel that the lines clogged as well as the filters. He ultimately resorted to disassembling the filter assembly and to using compressed air to clear the lines. Shortly before we neared the opening Colleen announced on the VHF that the engine was running again. We sent DV in first, and we all held our breath as we made our way to the Marina. They just made it! How do we know it was “just”? Because the engine wouldn’t start some days later when it came time to move from slip to haul-out dock.
Tusen Takkk II also had issues on the trip from Bonaire to Curacao. Several hours into the trip we noticed that the engine temperature as indicated on the pilothouse gauge was running a bit high. We went down into the engine room and took direct readings near the temp sender with an infrared gun thermometer. The readings looked fine. So the question became: was the method of measuring internal temp with the infrared gun flawed, or was the pilothouse gauge wrong. We consulted with Bill via VHF and he urged that we test the system by increasing our RPMs to see if the temps would continue to rise, and if so, would they level off at some point. So we kicked the RPMs way up, and watched the two conflicting indicators as they both rose. We stopped the experiment when we got a “high temp” warning alarm on the console at a temp that would presumably be OK but high on the infrared gun. Lower RPMs brought the temps down to “just slightly” high, and we continued the rest of the way without incident. After we got on the hard I removed the heat exchanger and found that it was indeed partially blocked. Conveniently, MRC, which has a shop adjacent to the Curacao Marine offices, was able to flush the exchanger with muriatic acid and render it squeaky clean. I reinstalled the exchanger before we left Curacao, but will have to wait until we splash again next Fall to see if that has completely resolved the problem.
On April 27 we suspended our chores early and drove downtown to join the throngs celebrating Koningsdag or King’s Day, a national holiday in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. The date marks the birth of King Willem-Alexander. Up until 2013, when Queen Beatrix abdicated and was succeeded by her son Willem-Alexander, the holiday was known as Koninginnedag or Queen’s Day and was celebrated on 30 April.
The streets and stores were packed — every citizen of Curaçao must have come downtown! And to do what? Strolling and eating and drinking and people watching and shopping at the vendor booths and stores, many of which featured special prices for the day. (We bought a sound bar for our TV at a price better than what is available in the USA from discount houses!)
Visit to Museum Kura Hulanda
On April 29 we took another break and visited the Museum Kurá Hulanda – the museum with the largest African collection in the Caribbean. Opened in April 1999, the museum is the vision of Jacob Gelt Dekker who founded and privately funds (initial investment $6 million) it through the Jade foundation. Museum Kurá Hulanda is an anthropological museum that focuses on the predominant cultures of Curacao. It offers a world-class chronicle of the Origin of Man, the African slave trade, West African Empires, Pre-Colombian gold, Mesopotamian relics and Antillean art.
Back at the Marina
For a number of years we have been using, with only limited success, PropSpeed to protect our rudder and propellor from fouling. But it is quite expensive, and so last fall we decided to try priming and then applying bottom paint. See below for some impressive modern art.
Foggy Flight Home
We flew to Savannah on April 5. I guess there was a lot of moisture in the air. See below.